I am busy with intensive language school while taking some time off work, so you will have to standby for a longer post later about the French Riviera. These photos were taken this Sunday in Villefranche-sur-Mer, ten minutes from Nice.
My blogging friend Chrissie from The Riviera Grapevine (now on a well deserved holiday in Australia) has told of the virtues of the bellet grape in this region during the past year…so perhaps I’ll switch from the ample rose to bellet within the coming weeks.
Meanwhile, the ‘chilly’ winter weather means wearing a sweater at night. Pas mal, as they say here. Not bad.
Surprises In a Cellar –
Let’s visit a ‘cave’ in an ancient stone basement in Bordeaux – comfortably lit, with a classic cellar vibe – chilly, dank, and smelling of must and dust. Perfect. :)
This cellar is on Bordeaux’s right bank, beside the Gironde estuary, where vintages are not expensive, and taste is amazing. Why? Generations of winemakers work here – hundreds. Here’s a sampling of what is stored, the original cost, and current values.
|Chateau||AOC||Vintage||Bottle size||Original purchase price/bottle (Euros and US dollars)||Current value/bottle (Euros and US dollars)|
|Chateau Cantinot||Blaye, Côtes de Bordeaux||2009||750 ml||€ 10($12.25)||€ 15($18.35)|
|Chateau Cantinot||Blaye, Côtes de Bordeaux||2009||Magnum||€ 20($24.50)||€ 30($36.70)|
|Chateau Clos Saint Emilion Philippe||Saint-Emilion Grand Cru||2009||750 ml||€ 16($19.60)||€ 22($26.90)|
|Chateau Clos Saint Emilion Philippe Cuvée 109||Saint-Emilion Grand Cru||2009||750 ml||€ 22($26.90)||€ 32($39.15)|
The point? These are well priced wines. The quality is excellent (Bordeaux winemakers take immense pride in the quality and reputation of their output). These are bargains compared to many US, Australian, and other European wines of comparable quality. That’s the magic of purchasing from smaller producers on the right bank, where the term ‘Bordeaux’ does not necessarily equate with ‘expensive.’
Second, the increase in value is not shabby – 45 percent over five years. Not a bad investment. And if the economy tanks and the world goes to heck, then it’s time to pull a few glasses out with a corkscrew.
Christmas Artists –
Here are a few artists/musicians met during these past Christmas season days.
Clarissa Schaefer runs La Galerie in Blaye after living in South Africa and Germany. In her own work she tries to put ordinary objects into new contexts so they can be appreciated when viewed from different angles.
During 2015, La Galerie will feature another creator residing in Blaye. Thierry Bisch is not only a renowned French artist, but a winemaker – producing an unusual (for Bordeaux) 100% cabernet sauvignon wine – named Etalon Rouge. At the price, it’s a steal. Click on this link to see paintings Thierry produces.
In the video below Thierry explains – humorously – why he produces images of animals rather than people, and why being true to yourself is of the greatest value.
This video was produced by an up and coming young film maker from the wine country of Marlborough, New Zealand, who now lives in France: Jacob Beullens.
This past Saturday in Blaye, a Bordeaux blues musician named Raoul Ficel graced La Galerie restaurant and art gallery with hours of soulful music. If you check out Raoul’s site you’ll find a splendid sepia-toned photo of one album cover – taken along the banks of the Gironde estuary – which Thierry calls the “Mississippi River of France.”
But the best part of this season? Being grateful, and perhaps having a friend or two to share that gratitude with.
Happy Holidays All.
After catching flights from Islamabad to Paris and onto Bordeaux – I’m with friends in the city of Blaye and enjoying free time after four years spent working in Asia.
The good news is that conditions appear to have been optimal for the 2014 vintage. That’s a relief. After stellar vintages in 2009 and 2010, the years 2011, 2012, and 2013 were unremarkable by comparison.
This may have been one reason why the mood was particularly festive and bubbly at a party which friends Les and Clarissa invited me to on Saturday night at the home of friends Alain and Dominique Bredin – physicians and members of a local wine tasting group.
Within minutes I met some of Right Bank Bordeaux’s most colorful winemakers.
Isabelle Chetty shared the story of how she abandoned France when fifteen years old, took a job as a butcher in New York, then traveled the world working on cruise liners before spending time in St. Thomas in the Virgin Islands (St. Thomas is my birthplace, so we chatted about the isle we share in common). Eventually, she returned to Bordeaux where she and her brother now own and manage Château Mercier (Appellation Côtes de Bourg) with 23 hectares (57 acres) of south and west-facing slopes that include clay and gravel soils.
Isabelle shared generous helpings of her 2010 Cuvée Prestige, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec. I later learned how the wine goes well with Pyrénées cheese (coincidentally, I purchased the same Pyrénées at an open air market in Blaye that morning, where the vendor wearing a red beret insisted on pouring us glasses of red wine to drink while we tasted his cheese).
Corinne Chevrier-Loriaud shared some of her 2007 vintage Château Bel-Air La Royére (Blaye – Côtes de Bordeaux) a hearty blend with an intriguing composition of 70 percent Merlot and 30 percent Malbec. Great promise with this winery.
When he was not busy charming his audience, I greeted Yann Bouscasse. We first met last July. Previously the owner of the third largest container shipping company in the world, Yann and his wife Florence decided to move to Bordeaux – where they now own Château Cantinot. I had the fortune to buy futures in 2009 Cantinot years ago, and the cellared vintage is now balanced and a joy to drink.
What else is new? The $9.7 billion Tours Bordeaux high-speed rail project – begun in 2012 – will be completed by the end of 2015. It will shave more than an hour off train travel times from Paris to Bordeaux, reducing a typical three-hour twenty-minute ride to less than two hours. This is the world’s largest rail concession contract, meaning that the consortium that designs and builds the rail line will also operate and maintain it for fifty years. The project is massive, and the road between the City of Bordeaux and Blaye shows the buzz of construction and earthwork projects. Soon, Parisians will visit the southern wine world of Bordeaux for a day. No doubt many Bordelais will appreciate choosing to live outside the city. Regardless, the rail line provides evidence of how Bordeaux’s economy is revving up.
I live and work in an Asian country where the population’s religion is predominantly Islam. I drink within a diplomatic enclave at a restaurant associated with the French embassy. The waiters (all are male) have become friends over time. They pass me a wine list soon after I enter. Because none drink alcohol, they are unable to recommend new wines on the list, but only tell how each sells compared to others.
For four years, this little walled-in enclave with decent wine and food have helped make the experience of living in this foreign land not unenjoyable. By ‘enclave’ I mean it. You pass through multiple road blocks and pat downs to enter. Why? Security. Consider recent events in this nation: 45 people were killed last week in a suicide bombing at the Wagha Border; days ago, a Christian couple (parents of three children) were bludgeoned by neighbors, strapped to a tractor and hauled around dirt roads, then finally shoved alive into a brick kiln to be incinerated by rural neighbors in Punaj Province. The reason? They reportedly (and this is questionable) criticized another religion. So far this year, 160 women (and those are only the known victims) were doused with acid and disfigured by men intent on ruining their beauty for diverse, ludicrous, reasons.
The wine list here is chosen by a young Frenchman (Jean Jacques) with an excellent sense of taste and value. He also added maps of wine regions, and lists of typical grapes from each.
There are other diplomatic restaurants/bars/clubs nearby: Canadian, Australian, British, American. Due to security, it can be challenging and difficult to gain entrance to most. Also, other wine lists are often inferior in terms of quality. This remark is not snobbish – but true. By inferior I mean many other wines are fruit bombs lacking character or complexity. It’s like watching a movie heavy on action and thin on plot or acting. Think of watching Casablanca. Why does it remain classic? There’s an intriguing plot set in a semi-exotic locale with excellent acting by Humphrey Bogart. You’re entertained because of quality and originality at many levels.
It’s the same with wine.
The wine list at this restaurant is not extensive, but includes decent Bordeauxs (with bottles from St. Estephe, Pauillac, St. Emillion, and well as good quality bargains from Blaye and Bourg). There are often Rhones, at least one white Burgundy, as well as an Alsace, Mosel, or Rhine Riesling.
I love to visit this restaurant, because the guests are from diverse international backgrounds – Norwegian, Moroccan, French, American, and dozens of other nationals. Because of constant job turnover, the faces change over the space of months, not years.
Last weekend I spent time with three friends – Claudio from Argentina (but with a Spanish passport and a home in Portugal), Alfred from Sierra Leone (just back from a visit to Uganda), Steve from Australia (now owning a home in Malaysia with his Japanese wife).
Here, we leave work behind, appreciate the truth that violence is not destined to rule the planet, and appreciate that a good way to break down potential animosities is by sharing time and meals with people from different backgrounds. Here, we enjoy the company of good friends, decent food, varied wine, fresh stories, and different opinions.
In a few weeks I shall leave this country. I cannot begin to describe how wonderful it has been to work with local staff – polite, courteous, hard-working, and generous people. Yet, for legal reasons related to religion – they are not allowed within the walls of our favored social venue here in the capital city.
Tolerance is born with dialog, and dialog can begin by sharing food and ideas in the company of diversity.
Farewell to you and your wonderful staff, Club 21. Au revoir.
The Maldive Islands in the Indian Ocean do not produce wine. Those living on any of the inhabited two hundred (of over a thousand) coral reef atolls earn their income from fishing or tourism. The highest point on the islands – a golfing tee – is less than ten feet above sea level. All wine is imported (it’s a four-hour flight from the capital of Malé to Dubai, and a one hour flight to Colombo, Sri Lanka).
The arrival scenario here to the capital city of Malé is unique: walk outside the airport, cross a road, and you stand before an ocean shoreline pier lined with ships waiting to buzz you out to your destination island.
Prepare to unwind.
The Maldives is Islamic, and alcohol you bring into the country is confiscated at customs. However, you’ll be provided with a receipt – and allowed to pick up your bottles on the way out. Resorts operate bars that serve visitors. On exiting the country, the duty-free store at the airport will happily sell you a range of bottles – including first-growth Bordeaux wines.
There are no wine surprises here – most resorts serve basic fare that include both inexpensive and costly Chilean, Californian, French, and New Zealand reds and whites and bubbles to help you unwind during the late afternoon on a white sand beach while watching a gorgeous sunset after a day of diving, snorkeling, sailing, or just reading and taking it easy.
The short video above shows that rather than spending time working on a wine post this past week – I’ve simply been on vacation. Peaceful and quiet. Remedial. With some intriguing aquatic friends…
Most visitors are from Asia and Europe. For example, this is Monsieur and Mademoiselle Roger, from a village near Lille in France. They have come to this same resort for 34 years and speak not a word of English. Filled with energy, they invited me to meet them in the morning to go see ‘a show.’
Curious, I met them at 10.00 am. They led me down some back alleys to where a chef was preparing food by chopping up chickens and throwing scraps into water – where a dozen basking sharks and ten sting rays eagerly tucked into the grub. Children stood nearby (but not too near) taking photos and laughing.
Soon after this visit, the Roger’s and I sat at the sand covered bar, where they drank glasses of scotch before lunch. One evening we shared wine before dinner. The retired doctor raised a glass, called the Maldives parfait, and then toasted to our mutual health – “a votre santé.”
Words and Wine – Book Review
If you like wine, but squirm at words churned out to describe it, here’s a book for you.
How to Love Wine: A Memoir and Manifesto by Eric Asimov tells how it’s okay to disregard looking for a quill of three thousand nouns and adjectives to describe wine. (How many Americans have even tasted a gooseberry? And just what is ‘tapenade and lavender’?)
Chapters alternate between stories about appreciating wine and wine regions, with the story of Eric’s own career. As a long time wine writer for The New York Times, Asimov explains how a few strong descriptors – instead of detailed minutiae of tasting notes – are usually adequate to describe a wine. He also questions whether it’s necessary to describe a wine. As long as we’re smiling, who needs it?
In a chapter titled The Tyranny of the Tasting Note, Asimov writes:
“…I’ve found that people who have no idea how one is supposed to talk about wine are far more creative and clear in discussing it than those who have read some books or undergone some training in wine classes.”
“…the flowery litany of aromas and flavors does little to capture the experience of a fine glass of wine.”
“…exaggerated language makes it far more difficult for people to enjoy wine without fearing that they somehow don’t understand what they are tasting…”
In a chapter titled Drinking by Numbers, Asimov elaborates in simple terms how scoring wines, and purchasing wines according to scores, can suck mystery and beauty out of appreciating wine. He offers the importance of considering context.
“Considering context requires asking crucial questions. Where will you be drinking this wine? With whom will you be drinking it? What will you eat? What’s the weather, the mood?”
Whereas the 100 point scoring system has merit, Asimov tells how it fails to consider context. That cheap but wonderful wine you drank with your beloved on a sunny evening on a beach that provides golden memories? Context. That overpriced red that you winced at while drinking with overcooked beef and annoying company? Context.
Asimov’s words reflect those of my friend Les Kellen, who, speaking of wine, tells friends:
“Wine can taste different at different times depending on what you’re eating, the temperature, even who you are with.”
Asimov is an experienced traveler, and has been privileged to taste a great range of diverse wines – at all price points. His writing also shows that he’s a normal guy who worked hard to gain his experience. He appreciates the benefits of discovering the magic and mystery of wines without depending on words or scores to point in any direction.
Perhaps he best sums up wine’s beauty in the second chapter:
“As much as we learn about it, as much as we know, it is at its heart a mystery.”
This book tells how exploring that mystery can provide joy.
If you love wine, but are still mystified as to why, you’ll appreciate this book even more.
Nice one Mr. Asimov.
“Wine talks…It has a million voices. It unleashes the tongue, teasing out secrets you never meant to tell, secrets you never even knew. It shouts, rants, whispers. It speaks of great things, splendid plans, tragic loves and terrible betrayals.”
So begins the book Blackberry Wine, by Joanne Harris (author of Chocolat). The book opens to the speaking voice of a bottle of wine – a 1962 Fleurie. This wine tells the story of a man named Jay – born the same year the wine was bottled. Pushed to the back of a cellar with two comrades – a Château-Chalon ’58, and a Sancerre ’71 – the trio stay happily away from the ‘metallic chatter’ of other bottles nearby, including a Dom Pérignon, a Mouton-Cadet, and a bottle of Stolichnaya vodka.
Then, six weeks before the story of this book begins, six other bottles arrive. “The strangers. The Specials…each with its own handwritten label and sealed in candle wax.” These wines were made not from grapes, but from other berries – including elderberry and blackberry. They are a lively crew who laugh and whisper. These bottles are inextricably related to the story of a man living upstairs: 37-year old Jay Mackintosh, author of a best-selling book titled Three Summers with Jackapple Joe.
The book soon splits into two parallel stories – one taking place beginning in 1975, when Jay was a youngster in rural England, and the other beginning in 1999, when Jay lived in London. The first story tells of Jay’s encounters with a charming semi-hobo named Joe (the protagonist of his later book), and the other tells of how Joe flees London and his girlfriend to live in a country house bought on impulse in France (primarily because the photo of the building reminded him of an image Joe once shared of his French dream house).
Modern day Jay comes to terms with loose ends from his childhood, while also embedding himself into colored and troubled rural interconnections east of Bordeaux.
Memorable scenes include young Jay protecting himself from bullies by clutching a magical bag of charms provided by Joe, and a surprise visit from his ex-London girlfriend – intent on bringing unwanted fame (and a television crew) to Joe’s new home village.
Characters in the book include liars, thieves, unlikely heroes, and an amiable ghost. The story concludes by the same bottle of 1962 Fleurie. For a vicarious plunge into railway, riverside, canal, and agricultural territory of rural England and France combined with a protagonist hunger to explore, Blackberry Wine is a decent read.